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Avant-Garde Cuisine

October 10th, 2007

The new world of cuisine, where the chef-artist-student-technician explores…

The chef creates a dish which touches the soul, through flavours. The artist lashes out his creativity on the plate. The student studies each and every component in detail. Every gram is taken into consideration, keeping in mind the result of how one ingredient reacts with another to form flavour odorants for the senses. The technician applies different techniques to the ingredients – tests, studies, trials and many failed expectations.

All this just to bring the guest a dish, for example, Fried BBQ Drumstick. Or, Tuna3 Veal.

The first dish, just fried chicken? Presented on the plate is simply a drumstick.

The latter, a Technical dish of tuna spume, tuna powder and a slice of Otoro wrapped around a slice of veal cooked at a low, constant temperature.

Comparison Analysis.

Here we have 2 different dishes. Both dishes comprise a great deal of techniques and thought. But both look totally different. Let me now break down the world of Avant-Garde into the world of Avant-Garde FLAIR and Avant-Garde INCOGNITO. (TRUST ME, MANY CHEFS WHO COME TO KNOW OF THIS WOULD CRUCIFY ME. WHO AM I TO MAKE SUCH A BOLD STATEMENT….WHATEVER….)

Avant-Garde FLAIR

Where the chef displays the techniques, for the guest to see, right there on the plate. With the caviars, pearls, powders, biscuits etc… He aims to impress with what he has to show. Many of us are guilty of this. A good chef once told me not to apply techniques simply for the sake of using it. I will never forget that. How true. But FLAIR refers to displaying techniques which make sense to the dish.

Example… Tuna3 Veal.

Tuna3 Veal

The veal loin is cooked sous vide, at a low, constant temperature. And as we all know (I hope) veal is best enjoyed at medium well (150ºf – 155ºf) (depending on the method the loin is cooked). The light foam is presented for moisture, the Otoro slice to add fatty smoothness and the powder to fully enhance the tuna and veal flavour.

This dish comprises 4 different techniques. The guest can see, feel and taste. That according to ME, this is Avant-Garde FLAIR.

Avant-Garde INCOGNITO

Where the chef presents the simplest of plating skills. The chinaware and the single ingredient. Or not? He aims to surprise the diners when they take that first taste. “How can this be?” Amazing, that’s what it should be.

Simplicity, with all the techniques “hidden” within the ingredient itself. The technique of the dish would be released like an army of flavours.

Example… Fried BBQ Drumstick.

BBQ Chicken Drumstick

The chicken drumstick is marinated with bbq sauce and other relevant ingredients which assist in the tenderising of the meat while adding flavour. (I’ll provide the recipe with all the ingredients… soon…)

It is then cooked sous vide (with all the juices) at 90°c – 100°c in a steamer. Then taken out and left to rest at ambient temperature.

After this, it is cooled in an ice bath. After removed from ice bath, the meat is coated with the thickened juices, till it coats evenly like when processing aspic work. Then breaded twice. Deep-fried till golden brown and finished in the oven.

Every step bears reason to ensure that the flavours are kept (sealed in) throughout the preparation.

The end result, amazing. Who would have ever thought to be served fried chicken that was crispy on the outside and super tender on the inside. Without needing to dip but still enjoying the smoky BBQ flavour.
The guest here feels and tastes the techniques carefully employed by the chef. That according to me is Avant-Garde INCOGNITO.

A new world divided into 2 distinct continents for obvious reasons

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Posted by Chef Ben at 4:52 am.

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