Some Fond Memories …

I was going through more old photos today and chanced upon some photos which I took during my time in Dubai. It was at this French inspired cafe chain, Paul. The answer to many expats living there for some decent simple sandwiches, pastries and coffee. Although they could do with an improvement on service and ala minute cooking (oh well it was Dubai after all). Bernadette and I got first hand experience

The one we visited was situated at the Dubai Marina, by far the nicest place in the whole city, whatever time of year.  And it was also at this same cafe that my best buddy and I shared lunch before I flew back home. Beautifully located just meters away from the seaside, you can enjoy a coffee and the beautiful blue sky. Obviously me being me, together with my obsession for a good citron tarte left me the most obvious pastry order (you could say that I am kind of a citron tarte snob …. hmmm ). Not to mention that they do whip up a mean croque monsieur and a cafe viennois, a heavenly cup of double espresso with whipped cream, hmmmmm ……….

I never thought such fond memories could be evoked just by glancing through some photos of Dubai. Just one of the few things that I dearly miss about “sand land”, plus the friends I left behind and even work (believe it or not!). Funny how you think that life is able to take a torch and burn you, but after everything, you realize that all it was doing was giving some colour to the meringue topping on your tarte citron…..

The Green Fairy

You start the night being able to see straight.

ABSINTHE. The “magical” drink which even the great Oscar Wilde described as hallucinatory, is probably one of the most talked about spirits.  Even though it is known as a liquor due to its alcoholic content it is a spirit. It has never failed to overpower the human mind whenever consumed (or so they say), due to its herbal or its outrageously high alcoholic content. But before anything let’s try to figure out what the drink really is.

Absinthe is an alcoholic drink made from Artemisia absinthium (a plant better known as grand wormwood) and a range of other herbs such as fennel, anise, melissa and hyssop. Actual recipes vary by country and manufacturer, as has the quality of each absinthe brand. Traditionally, the drink was quality-classified as either absinthe suisse (the best grade; alcohol content of 68-72%), demi-fine (50-68% alcohol) or ordinaire (45-50%).

Today, it is thought that there are about fifty brands of the absinthe drink available, produced mainly in France, Switzerland, Spain and the Czech Republic. Absinthe is usually green, although there are a few Swiss varieties that are clear. Best absinthes are made exclusively with all-natural ingredients and have no artificial colourings added. Quality green absinthe always gets its colour from the chlorophyll released from the herbs.

Late in the nineteenth century, absinthe became the drink of choice among bohemian intellectuals, writers, poets and artists in France and across Europe. Soon, people from all walks of life enjoyed this “magical” green potion ( but let’s face it, they were all junkies ) While those not so well off, celebrated l’heure verte (the green hour) in Parisian bars as a pre-dinner aperitif. Cafe painters and poets created art and poems dedicated to La Fee Verte (the “Green Fairy”).

Absinthe was originally served with chilled water, which was poured into a glass of the green spirit over a sugar cube that was placed on a perforated spoon resting on the top of the glass. Although other methods of drinking absinthe have evolved since, especially in the late 1990s, the original nineteenth-century ritual of preparing absinthe, known as la louche, remains an important part of the absinthe experience for all serious absinthe connoisseurs. It is believed that the louche process of adding water to the strong alcohol allows the release of essential oils from the herbs from which the absinthe drink is made, particularly thujone-bearing wormwood. It was strongly believed these oils not only counter the usual intoxicating effects of alcohol, but also bring the mind to a peculiar state of alertness, enhance one’s sensory perception and even unlock hidden creative powers — hence absinthe’s popularity among the nineteenth-century avant-garde artistic community.

Celebrity absinthe drinkers of that age include Vincent van Gogh. Other painters, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Paul Gaugin were also fond of absinthe. Paul Verlaine, Charles Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde, Ernest Hemingway and many others writers, poets and artists also drank absinthe for its unusual effects. More recently the creative Heston Blumenthal gave the green fairy a go during one of his Great Feasts TV shows, but it ended with the fairy having a go at his head instead, as it proved that this liquid green packed more than a punch.

Absinthe was far more than just another alcoholic beverage in those days: it was the very icon of la vie boheme, even a way of life for some. The Fairy sprinkled its magical green fairy dust in America, too, where the drink was much enjoyed in New Orleans. Some could say that the Green Fairy was the “happy link” for all across Europe and America. As it was something to look forward to after hours, something which kept them all going, sadly for some, they thought it was their purpose in life (yurp… junkies!)

The Green Fairy was the victim of her own popularity causing her downfall. During the 20^th century, there was a fierce movement of an anti alcohol lobby. European governments and U.S. administrations were all pressured into the ban. Absinthe proved a relatively easy target for the anti-alcohol movement, which blamed widespread “absinthism” (a mental condition the drink supposedly caused) that caused problems to society. French winemakers also backed the calls for the ban of the “green devil”. Mainly because of the decline in wine consumption. However she was never banned in Czech, Spain and the UK, mainly due to the low consumption in these lands.

In a 1988 Europe-wide law, wormwood was re-allowed as an ingredient in alcoholic beverages. In the United States, absinthe still cannot be sold in bars or stores, although personal possession and consumption is legal.

Many modern absinthe are produced using the cold mix system. This process is forbidden in countries with formal legal designations of absinthe. Manufactured by mixing flavouring essences and artificial colouring in high-proof alcohol, and is similar to a flavoured vodka or “absinthe schnapps”. Some modern Franco–Suisse absinthes are bottled at up to 82.3 percent alcohol and some modern bohemian-style absinthes contain up to 89.9 percent. Because of the lack of a formal legal definition of absinthe in most countries, many of these lesser brands claim their products to be “distilled” (since the alcohol base itself was created through distillation) and sell them to unsuspecting consumers at prices comparable to more authentic absinthes that are traditionally distilled directly from whole herbs. So be sure not to be swindled!

And you pretty much end up seeing thing in a blur.

We hope you enjoyed this Absinthe Special! Source from Absinthe Fever

Happy Drinking Happy Fooding!!!

Aromatic History Today

In Singapore, even the thought of fine French cheeses would turn a smile into a frown immediately. Possibly due to its pungent aroma. Pretty much as the Durian fruit (which we all so love) would do the same to the French. I was guilty of turning my nose up at cheese once. Then the person whom I still regard to as my chef, my mentor, Mr Julien Bombard,(Chef Patron of Saint Julien le Restaurant, Restaurant Julien Bombard and Le Fromagerie his cheese shop) introduced me into the world of wonderful French Cheeses. I must say, I’ve never looked back since! Even today, like a kid in a toy store I never fail to be excited (sometimes disappointed) to see what’s in store on the cheese trolley when we dine out. The one which tops my list of favourite cheeses (and mind you the list is rather long) would be the Époisses. Nothing seems better than a 250gm wheel of it with warm baguette and a chilled glass of white (even though a Chablis is most recommended, I tend to prefer it paired with a chilled Riesling from Grosset or to make the Connoisseurs frown even more with a chilled glass of Muscat from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace).

A quick re-cap on the history of Époisses cheese.

Époisses cheese originated as early as the XVIth century in a religious community of monks in the small village of Époisses for nearly 2 centuries. Found in the commune of Côte-d’Or, of France. Some halfway between Dijon and Auxerre.

The recipe was later handed over to the peasants in the valley after the departure of the monks. The Burgundy farmers’ wives were solely responsible for making the original cheese from which was passed down from the monks. Over time, they introduced their own traditional skills into the process and improved the quality of this outstanding cheese.

Sadly during the war, the women were left to work in the fields alone. Without time to take care of the cheese making or selling the cheese in local markets, the dairies became neglected. By 1954 Époisses had all but disappeared form the farms.

In 1956 a pair of small farmers, Robert and Simone Berthaut decided to re-launch the production of Époisses by mobilizing the traditional skills of those who still knew how to make the cheese. Berthaut Époisses rapidly gained favour among everyone and became a spectacular success. In 1991, the Époisses obtained the Appelation of Origine Controlée Époisses of Burgundy, then Époisses in 1999.

The fabrication technique is very specific and particularly complex: the milk stemming from qualified producers undergoes a slow coagulation, and then the hooping is made with care to allow a good drainage. A patient re-wiping precedes the maturing of about five weeks, during which the cheese receives manual and individual care, two to three times a week, with water loaded more and more with Marc de Bourgogne. Its rind then slowly takes on a beautiful red-orange tint. Its aroma is rich. Its flavours stay sweet and subtle. The Époisses has a maturation of 7 weeks and a maximum of 11 weeks. The standard weight of the cheese is 9oz with a fantastic fat content of close to 50%.  Traditional Cheese makers never alter the size nor the weight of cheeses, as they believe that each one is distinct and the perfect flavour of the cheese is measured down to its standard weight and size.

In 2008, the Époisses Berthaut won the World Championship cheese contest being recognised as best of its class. As well as the MÉDAILLE D’OR Paris 2009. Now how can anyone question a cheese of this level ?!?!

Keeping With The Times

Singapore is a city that is constantly developing. And with development brings change, and this plays a major part in food establishments having to move for whatever reasons. One of these moves include a popular local hawker that has recently found its new home in the basement of the ION Orchard.

Originally located at the well known Scotts Shopping Center food court, this Beef Noodle shop (and along with its loyal patrons) has crossed over the road to the ION. I really do not mean to be a “kill joy” but I honestly do not really fancy their noodles. However the original stall brings back memories. Many many years ago when I was much younger and rounder, I used to get dragged out of the house to go shopping with my mother and sister. After endless walking we would “take a break”, usually at Scotts Shopping Center, for beef noodles. I guess it had something to do with the go00Ooooy beef slime that coated the rice noodles that was a kind of turn off for me. However the beef balls dipped in “chin cha lok” was pretty enjoyable!

Anyway for old times sake I decided to give it a go, and I must say, despite the move and after all these years, the flavour has not change a bit. That is the secret of success for any food business – Consistency – the main “ingredient” that keeps customers loyal and attracts new customers. Many new restaurateurs are trying to think of new ways and gimmicks to get business, however they all could learn a thing or two from humble food stalls like this one. Be sure to give it a go if you have not already done so!

Happy Fooding!

Tasty Treats – More from Hong Kong

Before our year end Hong Kong Food trip, I anxiously emailed friends and other asking where exactly in the city we’d be able to savour great, authentic Chinese and Local cuisine. With the help of fellow Foodie, W, from Hong Kong-based food blog Whine&Dine, we had a long list of places to suss out. One on the list brought us to the International Finance Centre (IFC) in the city, where a crowded Chinese restaurant awaited.

The name of the place was simply called TASTY. How could one go wrong eating at a place called TASTY! I mean, c’mon ! It had to be good! And indeed, good it was. Mmmmmm ………. They were recently awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin Inspectors.

We did not want to fill ourselves up too much as there was so much more gourmet goodness that Hong Kong had to offer! So we decided to go for just 2 dishes. (A great tip for any of you planning for a food trip and if it happens to be your first – share everything).

One was the Fried Cheong Fun that W had recommended and the other was Abalone and Chicken Congee.

I am not a fan at all of cheong fun, mostly because of the pale unappetizing white and secondly because of the taste. However the fried variation of cheong fun was not too bad. Firstly, it wasn’t pale white and its wok-fried was fantastic.

The congee ….. Ohhh the congee….. smooth, silky, full flavoured goodness. The chicken used was clearly a well farmed chicken and the abalone was not shaved thin like paper but a well portioned slice. I seriously have no words to explain how good it was. Seriously ….

However the biggest tip which W gave me was to go early. We were there by half 11 in the morning and it was already nearing to a full dining room! By the time we finished and left, there was a scatter of hungry people waiting outside with queue numbers. Unfortunately, we were not able to sample more of the menu, but it is just another reason to fly back to the great H K !

For more of the Tasty photos click HERE!

Happy Fooding !!!

OH NO !!!

Oo000oooOOpssssss ……. I was going through the desktop and checking through the external hard drives and realized that there are loads of photos from before which I meant to write about but somehow never did…. YiKeS !!! So apart from me having to write about Hong Kong I guess I would have to fit these overdue stories in somehow …. hmmm … The painful consequence of procrastination…. I feel like shooting myself ……

FEBRUARY CHEF FEATURE: FREDERIC CHABBERT

This month in the spotlight we have Frederic Chabbert of 2 Michelin Starred Petrus from the Island Shangri-La in Hong Kong. Having just dined at Petrus in December of 2009 (our annual Michelin food trip saw us in Hong Kong) we experienced his genius first hand.

Being big foodies, one might think that going straight for the tasting menu would be the obvious choice, just as how our good friend and one of the assistant food and beverage directors at the Island Shangri-La might have spotted when we were carefully reading the menu. It was rather distracting choosing from the menu, as the Petrus not only offers great intimate service compliments of maitre d’hôtel Patrice Le Nouvel and exceptional food. It also “wows” you with its breathtaking view of the Victoria Harbour that absolutely stuns you. Making you wish that the night would never end. And the choice of wines available is absolutely amazing as Petrus does have one of Asia’s largest Wine Cellars with big labels from Chateaux Petrus and other great houses. Earning them 8 consecutive years of recognition from the Wine Spectators Best Award of Excellence. However at the end of the day, the most sought after would be the food and how the identity of the chef is shown in the dishes.

Everything on that night’s menu seems to draw you in with its mystique and traditional flair. How can you not be attracted to those attributes as Frederic Chabbert has a way of placing his starred background into his well-designed menu not to mention showing his sincerity in his food.

Having trained in some of the finest establishments after his culinary academics in Souillac, it includes big names like 2 Michelin Starred Le Cerf in Alsace, 1 Michelin Starred Le Pont de L’Ouysse in Lacave. Not to mention the starred Le Roussillion in London and of course Alain Ducasse’s 3 Michelin Starred Le Louis XV in Monaco. One would not expect anything lesser from Frederic than the best and I can assure you that he does not deliver anything less than magnificent. Some of the dishes served were extra special for me as it touched me nostalgically. Taking me straight back to my young days in the kitchen. It is not a matter of doing really great classical dishes, but it is a matter of being able to make those dishes relevant for today and yet keeping the historic charm and splendour of yesterday in it. And Frederic is a true master of it. And this was one of the first few things I said to him and thanked him for when we spoke nearing the end of the meal.

Hong Kong is not his first Asian outing, arriving at the Island Shangri-La from restaurant Lafite at the Shangri-La in Kuala Lumpur. He brings not only the knowledge of his extensive Michelin Starred background but also his knowledge of the Asian palette to Petrus. The continued success of Petrus proves his genius in the kitchen. When the first Hong Kong Macau Red Guide was released for 2008 Petrus was awarded with a Star and soon after was promoted to 2 Michelin Stars in 2009. We are certain that the 3^rd Star will not be too far away.

There are so many diverse food styles to choose from today, however Frederic says it best, noting that sometimes it is just the simplest of dishes which, is able to bring us happiness. And you can be certain that you will feel nothing lesser than that after your experience with Petrus and being well taken care of by Frederic Chabbert and his amazing team.

We hope you enjoyed this month’s feature, and a special thank you to Ms Ilona Yim, Director of Communications of the Island Shangri-La and Nicholas Liang, Assistant F&B Director of the Island Shangri-La for without whom this post would never have happened.

Please follow the link here for more photos on our dinner at Petrus!

Happy Fooding everyone!!