WGS 2010 with David Thompson
Every year the World Gourmet Summit in Singapore plays host to a long list of chefs. This year was no different, apart from the influential Ferran Adria gracing our shores, a friend of mine was invited down as well. 1-Michelin Starred David Thompson of NAHM at the Halkin in London was in town and cooking at Mezza9 at the Grand Hyatt. It has been awhile since I last met up with David and that was when we cooked together at the Burj al Arab. Bernadette and I were super excited to be able to enjoy a great meal from him.
It really does hurt to give bad reviews to establishments that give less than mediocre service but for an establishment like this one, we were really taken aback. Dinner seemed to be questionable affair from the time I called up to make a reservation – it took about 30mins for the reservations staff to note that I wanted a table for 4 at Mezza9 for dinner. Or shall I say, it took half an hour for me to repeat the same thing over again, for her to repeat it to me all wrong, for me to break it down into precise little keywords so that she could piece it all together. “So Sir, you want to make a reservation for 9 people?” ……”Dinner at Mezza9 at 4?”…… Kill me right now.
When we arrived, we were seated at a table that was “half set up”. One table was fully set with cutlery, napkin, water glass etc. And the other seats were missing their water glasses. After we looked through David’s menu, we waited another 15mins and still no service. So we had to actually ask for water. TEN minutes later, we had to Ask again. Then one guy brought us 2 glasses of tap water, and our other guest, my brother-in-law Andrew, just had an empty, overturned glass to fiddle with. Then the second guy came over with a bottle of still water, noticed that we already had 2 glasses of water, and there was this big confusion, blah blah blah…… All in all, it took at least 30mins till each of us had a glass of water.
Even before we were seated, I had asked the fine service people to inform David that I was here as he was expecting me for dinner this week. I expected David then come by our table to chat, let us know what to expect, etc. Instead, a service staff came by and said “Sir, I’m sorry but the Chef is very busy so he can’t see you”. It wasn’t really well put, but having worked alongside David before I wasn’t surprised that he’d be held up in the kitchen as he really loves to be actually involved in the cooking like all other great chefs. But after the meal when we did actually see David, his first response was “Ben! You came? I thought you did not show?!?!?” Hmmmm … liar liar pants on fire, shame on the server for lying to me earlier! 5 star service? Hardly ever. The service was rougher than a busy hawker center.
Well this and the fact that from the time we sat down it took roughly over an hour for us to get our beers and cocktails, that and the chefs in the show kitchen playing and talking loudly. But everything was forgotten when the food arrived, the braised mackerel in betel leaves was simply stunning, and the chef’s special salted beef (the same lying server said it was prepared for us specially by David, hmmm .. how did he do it when he did not even know we came ?) The curries were smooth, flavourful and in true Thai style, spicy! The grilled mussel starter was as lovely as I could remember. The selection of greens served with the mains were inspiring. Especially the Penny Worth.
Desserts were charming as usual, but I was missing the Coconut Wrapped Banana Fritters that is absolutely marvelous. However, there was Coconut cake, sweet, smooth and totally yummy! I can just picture myself going through a tray of it! Yes, a tray! Hahaaaa …. When we thought that at the end of the meal no service team could further screw things up, it took forever to get our coffee orders and then it felt like forever to get the actual coffee and tea. And when it did arrive it was the wrong order! Except for my super diluted Chamomile Tea. I know steeping a bag of tea takes skill, but that cup was made by a person with neither skill nor heart. So sad, so sad indeed. At least, what lacked in service was made up ten-fold in the food and quality of ingredients.
Which brings me again to repeating, that the level of service here in Singapore is really one to be concerned about. Is it because the customers are demanding? Or the hiring is really not looked into properly? Or that “big named” establishments like this one think they are already too good that it can be overlooked? Whatever it is, it is definitely not a reason but rather an excuse. Excuses and self-biased statements seem to be the “IN” thing today in the the local F&B scene. Well, the positive thing was that we enjoyed David’s cooking (however wished we could have spent more time together chatting) and that I have learned from the experience to try to never have this happen in my restaurant.
I sincerely hope that we all learn a thing or two from this experience/post – never ever allow a guest to leave regretting. Happy Fooding!
More photos HERE !!!
I actually find the WGS “celebrity” dinners very questionable, especially since, like u, I’ve been let down not just once, but a few times.
It is not the chefs that are questionable, but the dinners held here by them during the WGS. Firstly, it usually comes at quite a hefty price. So u think, well, maybe it’s worth it, cos I won’t have to fly all the way to France or London or Spain, so what’s $300 or $500. But now, I think it is really unfair that those of us who may not have the opportunity to travel afar, are “cheated” into “celebrity chef” dinners here. I suppose I do feel stupid for not thinking it through before burning a hole in my pocket. It’s obvious. If you have had a meal by David Thomspon at Nahm in London, or a meal by Bruno Menard at Restaurant L’osier in Tokyo, it obviously can never compare to the same meal, by the same chef, cooked in a kitchen elsewhere.
A “celebrity” chef for the WGS is merely a guest in whichever kitchen of whichever restaurant or hotel he’s making this “appearance”, and he/she has what, a week or two? to train up the kitchen staff? And I’m sure you’ll agree with me that in every kitchen, you’ll have 10 staff who work like robots, to 1 staff who works with that genuine desire to learn. So the arrival of a guest chef in a kitchen usually just means “wah lau so sian, have to learn new menu, blah blah blah” to the kitchen team. Whereas at this chef’s actual restaurant, his kitchen team are like a part of him. They have to embody and truly understand his vision for the meal, to create that dining experience that has made him a “celebrity” in the first place. It can’t be simply created in any old kitchen in Singapore overnight, just for an overpriced World Gourmet Summit dinner.
I’m sorry to say this, but if a chef is honest with his food and honest to his “fans”, he would not serve his menu that was cooked by a team not handpicked by himself. So perhaps some chefs who have taken part in the WGS before were “convinced” by the organiser that they would have a 5-star kitchen to work in, with a 5-star team to work with. So we’ll give them the benefit of the doubt. Masterclasses are ok, since it’s just like a cooking demo. But any chef who dares present his menu more than once for a WGS should be skewered and satay-ed.
Thanks for such an honest comment. I actually totally agree with you and brought up this same point to Ben after our dinner at Mezza9 that night. It’s not just unfair to guests, sometimes I think it’s probably unfair to the guest chefs too. Like even David was really upset that we had such a lousy experience while trying to enjoy his menu, and he couldn’t really do anything about it. An incompetent team to work with means his “name” is also tarnished, so we feel for him. Chefs like him will probably never come back for such events in Singapore.